BA’A ON THE ISLAND OF ROTE

We arrived on the island of Rote on the 3rd of August, after a very quick but very rough sail. Found out later that it was so rough even the ferries weren’t running!! But WE were. After dropping the anchor and making sure we were secure, we were off in the dinghy to the beach. The local tourist bureau have hired boys to carry our dinghy ashore and help us carry our things. We were picked up in a truck/bus and taken to the king’s previous residence for lunch.

KING'S RESIDENCE

The King of Thie was helped to the throne by the Dutch many years ago. The King, who died four years ago, had forty wives and 25 children. His eldest son, crown prince Jersy Weltry Messakh is head of the department of Culture and Tourism for Rote. When his father died the kingdom died with him, Rote is now a precinct of Indonesia. The island is still very much part of the third world, very high unemployment, very low wages, little sanitation, no running water and a lot of places don’t have electricity. The average wage is 500,000 rupiah per month which equates to about $68.00 AUD. 

TYPICAL HOUSE

The whole idea of Sail Indonesia visiting is to attempt to get tourism off the ground. The islands biggest asset is it’s people. They are warm, friendly and always cheerful. As you walk down the street cries of “hallo mister” follow you everywhere. They are generous beyond belief. The minister for tourism, Jersy could not do enough for us. We were taken on tours, fed morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea and then back again for dinner.

ROTE DANCER

The second day we were off on a tour up into the mountains to visit a new school that Jakarta had built for the locals. It is a free school for those children whose parents cant afford to send them to school otherwise. There is no electricity, no water, not enough tables and chairs or books and pencils. We were able to present them with some fifty exercise books and pens and pencils. They were very appreciative of the picture books that my mum and her friends had made.

We have got the address of the school, and would like to continue to support them in whatever way we can. Not sure yet how to achieve this, but giving money is not the answer.

PRESENTING BOOKS

There was a Gala dinner with a lot of officials in attendance, some having come in from Jakarta. All the skippers were presented with a Tiilangga or traditional cowboy hat, while the crew (that’s us girls) were presented with the local scarves. They are worn to show respect, and to take part in any of the traditional dances the men must wear their hats and the ladies their scarves. The scarves are worn by everyone at any important or official function. We were also presented with certificates to commemorate our visit, and as Tony was the only Belander (Dutch) present, he was called to accept them on behalf of all the yachties.

A BELANDER AND AN AUSSIE

Because quite a few boats were still here the day after the official end of our visit, Jersy put on a BBQ fish night for us. It got to the stage we weren’t game to say that we would still be here the next day for fear they would feel obliged to organise something.

We leave tomorrow with an overwhelming sense of gratitude and warmth toward the wonderful people of the Island of Rote.

Kupang

KUPANG - INDONESIA

KUPANG CITY

Yes, we made it! The trip was long, tedious and boring, not to mention ROLLY!! We rolled from one side to the other and back again. We left Darwin at 7.00am on Sunday the 25th and put the anchor down at 11.30 on Thursday 29th July. So that is just over 100hrs at sea.

Clearing in was an experience: 9 (yes nine) people on board to do the paperwork for quarantine and customs, which involved lots and lots of papers and stamps and signing god only knows what. Then you go ashore and start all over again. There you see 1) Customs, 2) Quarantine, 3) Health and 4) the Harbour Master, pay 210,000 rupiah and by this time you really need a drink. Bintang is the order of the day, a really nice beer. Yep, even I am drinking it. A big bottle costs 30,000 rupiah which equates to $4.00. Wine and spirits are almost non existent here, so beer it is.

LOCAL VEGGIE STORE

Friday we were up bright and early for the complimentary bus trip that was to leave at 8.00 but didn’t. Apparently it was organised for 9.00 o’clock! There were 3 buses (small, old, ripped seats, rattled like mad and dicky brakes) lined up and once we were on, on came our guide and 2 guards. We left with police escort and sirens blaring while our guide stuck a megaphone out the window to announce to all and sundry that we were very important tourists from Australia and to make way for us. Boy, did we feel like royalty.

RICE PADDY

We saw a demonstration of a cultural dance and musical instrument playing from the island of Roti, then on to a community house for refreshments (all free) and then off to a remote traditional village, about an hour’s drive up into the mountains. ( with dicky brakes!!) The roads are very narrow, so the police went ahead and stopped the traffic so we could come through unhindered. If we needed to turn or get back onto the road after a stop, they just stepped out into the road and stopped all traffic for us.

What came next is something that we will remember for a long time to come. We drove up into the hills behind Kupang to a traditional village. We were only the second group of tourists to ever go there. What a welcome we got. The children from the school were dressed in traditional costume and delivered a ritualised call of welcome. We were all presented with a scarf or “blanket” which is given as a sign of respect.

There were probably 2000 people there, nearly all the older people were dressed traditionally and chewing betel nuts. A special welcome dance was performed, and then we were all invited to participate. After the ceremonies were complete we were given banana leaves on woven plates and given a traditional lunch.

The generosity of spirit and food was humbling, they have so little and still they shared. And everywhere smiling faces. Awesome!!

The children are especially delightful, and if you take their photo and show it to them they dissolve into peals of laughter. Everyone wanted to shake our hand or take our photo.

KUPANG KIDS

Well another day or two in Kupang then onto Rote. Will keep you posted. Not sure when as the internet is intermittent and slow.

Kupang

Just a short note to say all is well but internet very dodgy, will try this later. We are on the island of Rote, fascinating, but very underdeveloped. Will try more next time.